Showing posts with label soju. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soju. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 21, 2021

Death of Hoi Shik (회식)

 

Death of Hoi Shik (회식)

 

Korea has traditionally been a highly cohesive and homogeneous society and socializing with colleagues has been an integral part of the office for generations. In the modern era, the firm provided employment (tacitly guaranteed for life), status and a social network for leisure time activity. People worked long hours and dedicated tremendous effort to raising the country out of poverty into the modern nation it is today.  Employees were fiercely loyal and took great pride in the firm's performance.  Bonding was strengthened and work stress relieved and colleagues often went out after work, quaffed soju and gorged on samgyupsal (cheap liquor and grilled pork bellies). Periodically, senior managers and executives hosted their team to meals and drinks as a team-building exercise. These invitations were often impromptu with the manager announcing at or near quitting time, "We are having drinks tonight" and any previous plans anyone had going out the window.  Employees felt compelled to participate in these sessions as opting out was perceived as disloyalty and could undermine chances for promotion.  Furthermore, a decent meal and unlimited drinks at the company's expense were often welcome. The sessions resembled a 'pub crawl' as men followed up dinner with visits to subsequent establishments for 2-cha, 3-cha or more, often arriving home well lubricated late at night (or early the next morning). Collectively, these events are known as hoi shik (group dining or company dining) and helped solidify Korea’s reputation as a drinking culture.

 


Source: pixbay

It is hard to pinpoint the moment when things began to change.  Perhaps it started with the Asian financial crisis of 1997 / 1998.  Major layoffs undermined company loyalty.   Firms were under financial stress and had to cut costs. After recovering from the crisis, many managers tried to buy back loyalty by reviving the practice but dropouts began to grow more frequent. Many people lost their jobs and corporate cohesion was weaker.  One's friends were no longer all employees of the one firm. Over time, social changes further undermined the practice.  Female employees, very much in the minority, were frequently hassled (and worse) at hoi shik by drunk, older colleagues.  Health consciousness grew and the ill effects of frequent overdrinking (and over eating) raised concerns. The family unit became increasingly important and younger employees, in particular, resented staying out and getting drunk on inexpensive liquor. Individualism undermined conformity.  Companies too began to recognize productivity losses arising from badly hungover staff. Tax law changed limiting the amount companies could write off for entertainment expenses.  The 1:1:9 slogan appeared, 1 location, 1 type of alcohol and home by 9 pm.  Hoi shik began to evolve into team lunches (without alcohol). 


  

Source: pixbay

 

With the hoi shik already an endangered species, it is possible that COVID-19 will be its death knell. Social distancing rules have severely curtailed socializing. Crowded indoor spaces are breeding grounds for super spreader events. Restaurants are closing earlier and limiting the size of each party. As a result of cultural changes in Korea and an ongoing pandemic, the practice of going out after work with colleagues, night after night (and mass-murdering brain cells) may have gone the way of the dinosaur.  And that is something to be celebrated.  Cheers!






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Tuesday, December 24, 2019

Home-sool (drinking at home) or Hon-sool (drinking on your own)?


Home-sool (drinking at home) or Hon-sool (drinking on your own)?


"How do I avoid excessive drinking without upsetting my boss or co-workers?  Where are the coolest bars for friends and lovers? What is the best way to overcome a soju hangover?"  As the year-end approaches, we can see ample evidence of the changes in drinking culture in Korea and the stress emerging from generational differences. Social sub-groups are creating their own rules so how you have fun depends on who you are drinking with.

Statistics suggest that alcohol consumption is static but looking closely, we can see that the types of alcohol and how it is consumed are undergoing dramatic change.  More people choose to drink at home (home-sul) or on your own (hon-sool) than ever. The changes in drinking culture seems to reflect the company culture or, perhaps, the other way around. It is complicated!

Thursday evenings after work are the busiest time at bars and restaurants for drinking with friends or co-workers - whereas it used to be Fridays. Work-life balance is more important than ever and people prefer to keep Friday afternoons/evenings free from any social engagements because it is the beginning of the weekend.

Another dramatic change is that the single group norm is being supplanted by individual preferences. The younger generation who reject the social norms set by their fathers' generation choose what they want to drink, how much to drink, and what snacks to eat while drinking.  This includes the option of drinking at home or on your own. 



Alcohol consumption is diversifying as it is no longer required to go along with the crowd. According to "2018 Alcohol Statistics" by the Ministry of Health and Welfare/ Korea Health Promotion Institute, consumption of traditional soju decreased slightly in the last three consecutive years from 955,507 kl (2015) to 945,860 (2017), whereas imported beer increased from 170,919 m/t to 331,211 m/t in the same period.  High end distilled soju increased from 954 kl to 1,857 kl, more than doubling in the 3-year span. We see the market diversifying within each category while the total market size remains unchanged.  Bars featuring more than 100 types of makgeolli, (a traditional fermented rice drink beer) have been drawing consumers in their 20s and 30s.  The relatively low alcohol content and compatibility with various side dishes enhances its appeal. 

At the work place, respecting individual tastes and preferences is perceived as an important characteristic of the cooperative co-worker (according to a mid-30s former co-worker now imbedded in a Korean firm).   

Rapidly changing social values and working culture seem to be changing the drinking culture in Korea.





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